Pistola y Corazon: When my stomach blogs about missing home

This could get emotional, I'm warning you at the outset.

Last winter we skipped town for a few months and fled to Europe, wandering our way down from Paris, through Granada, out to the island of Madeira, and eventually landed in Lisbon for the month of February (click on any of the above city names for a blog post detailing our time there!). We had the most dreamy AirBnB possible, and were ready to settle down in one place for a little and really make it home. The only problem was, having been on the road for so long at that point I (Andrew) actually was really beginning to miss our real home. And for me, that usually means missing food.

Chicago is a dangerous place to live if you like to eat. We have two seasons: eating outside season, and eating inside season. And we celebrate both pretty hardily, hopping from patio to food festival to rooftop bar when weather permits, and hunkering down in dark lounges or around restaurant fireplaces when it's so cold out that the entire city second guesses why we live here in the first place. But it's more than simply the quantity of our consumption in Chicago that makes it dangerous; the quality of our bars and restaurants is fairly unrivaled. Yes, I'm biased, but I've traveled a lot and there are few places like the Windy City to feast in. And so it leaves us spoiled, unable to spend too long away without longing for a good meal and a cold bevarage back home.

But back to Europe. Don't get me wrong: the Parisians know a thing or two about the culinary arts. As do the Spaniards and the Portuguese. They have their fine dining, their traditional dishes that have been perfected over generations, their little espressos and expensive wines (don't get me started on trying to find a decent cup of coffee or a well mixed cocktail though). But you know what they don't have, and thus for all of their aforementioned delicacies they are left utterly lacking in the food department?

Mexicans.

The Institute for Mexicans Abroad reports that there are around 11.9 million Mexicans living outside of Mexico proper: 97.8% of them live in the United States. Without Mexicans, there are no tacos. There is no tequila or mezcal. There is no horchata. No pozole, no quesadillas, no elote, no chilaquiles, no tortilla chips still warm from the frier and most certainly no guacamole or salsa to dip them in. I could go on for hours, but put simply, without the Mexican culinary influence that we have in the States (and moreover in Chicago), what reason is there for me to go out for dinner?

Now, I'm aware that I am beginning to sound extreme. But remember, I was getting homesick. And so we started searching for any Mexican restaurant in Lisbon, disappointedly scrolling through the names of restaurants with menus that looked nothing like the food I was craving.

And then we found it. A taqueria called "Pistola y Corazon," just a couple of miles from our apartment. Their website boldly proclaimed "our taqueria is a place where food should be enjoyed, without judgement and without preconceptions. Eat with your hands, with other food lovers, good music and strong 'cocteles'." We set off to find this beacon of goodness with high hopes.

Upon entering the small, one-room restaurant you immediately notice that there are no individual tables. It is all communal seating (which we found after talking to the owner is a concept most Europeans are still getting comfortable with), save for a bar in the back lined with tequila bottles. On the wall there is a painting of Frida Kahlo wearing a Daft Punk shirt and smoking a cigarette next to a photograph of two boys in luchador masks. The books on their shelves bear titles such as "La Tacopedia" and "Chicano Visions," and their napkin holders are empty Pacifico 6-pack carriers (which, by the way, is a Mexican beer and one of the first beers I ever had, and it happened to be with my brother-in-law who is...wait for it...one-quarter Mexican. I may be connecting way too many dots here, but this seems like more than blind chance so roll with it). I don't want to even go into their menu (you can drool over it here), for fear that this blog post will turn into a full-on novel (have we even talked about their cocktails yet?!). But that first time we went, we knew that we had found a bit of home there in Lisbon. It could've been the hot peppers on my tacos de chicharron, or simply the fact that I hadn't really processed how much I was beginning to miss Chicago, but I definitely started getting choked up. I wanted to walk into the back and hug the cooks. I wanted to shout to all of Lisbon that this place was the best taco shop I've eaten in to date (and that is saying something). I wanted to come back for more food. Every. Single. Day.

And we kind of did. For their lunch specials, for late night mezcal cocktails, we even ended up there for dinner on Valentine's Day (qué romántico). And they became our people, too (though they probably thought it was weird how often these gringos ate there). So much so that we asked them if we could come in one morning and take photos for them, just to share with our small following of people how much we loved their restaurant. And in exchange, they packed our bellies so full of Mexican goodness that we immediately went home for a multi-hour siesta. 

There are a number of different ways I could end this blog post (and if you've managed to stick it out until now then I applaud you), but I'll simply say this: I am eternally grateful for the little things that, no matter where in the world we go, bring us briefly back home. And I am forever indebted to this restaurant for doing that for me. If you are ever in Lisbon, do yourself the massive favor of spending an evening at Pistola y Corazon. And let us know when you go, we sometimes price plane tickets back to Portugal simply to say hi, grab a taco, and drink mezcal with our friends there. ¡Salud!

Brent + Theresa: Wedding at Little Goat, Chicago

Don't get us wrong, we love traditional weddings. But there was something so fun about Brent and Theresa's celebration that made us super happy for a non-traditional evening. After an amazing (and beautiful!) San Fran elopement, the lovely couple came home to Chicago to celebrate in a memorable, and truly "them" fashion. From the quirky Freehand hotel where they got ready for the evening's festivities, to walking around the West Loop neighborhood for portrait time, to an all-out party on the rooftop of Chicago's well-known Little Goat Diner, the night was sheer revelry and planned to perfection. Here are a few of our favorites from our time together, enjoy!

The Nicodems do Lisbon

Part 4 of our European Adventure (click here for Part 1, here for Part 2, and here for part 3):

Two weeks in Paris, ten days in Spain, and a week adventuring around the island of Madeira; by the time we arrived back in Lisbon, we were ready to stay put for a little. We met up again with our friend Jonathan Grant, and the three of us found the most peaceful AirBnB to call home for the next three weeks as we explored the Portuguese capital.

If you were to ask us right now "if you could move anywhere abroad where would you choose," there is very little doubt in my mind that both Marianne and I would tell you Lisbon. With all the history and architectural beauty of Paris, but the cultural easy-going nature of a city near the ocean (think more California, less New York), we found ourselves quite at home. It is a city hit hard by Europe's economic recession, but in the midst of bouncing back. A city filled with a vibrant art, music, food and drink scene. A city with incredible natural beauty, from the many botanical gardens scattered throughout the city to the Atlantic cliffs and beaches to the west, and a city with overwhelming man-made beauty as well, from the São Jorge castle to the pastel-colored homes lining Lisbon's narrow streets. It felt like every palatial, tile-covered building was once home to royalty but now housed countless boutique shops selling everything from handmade home decor to wine to artisanal candles.

And so we adventured. Most of our days there was no express purpose or destination in mind (though we made a point to do our due diligence of "tourist" activities), rather we simply wandered through the different neighborhoods, spent hours playing cards in local cafés, and ate and drank our fair share of Portuguese food and drink. We were there to do normal life (and as a respite from normal life), and it felt good. 

We're excited to share more of our Lisbon adventures with you in the coming weeks, from a photoshoot we did for the best taco restaurant I have ever been to (put in bold and italics because if you know us, you know that I don't say those words lightly or as hyperbole), to a Lisbon inspired cocktail project I spent the weeks developing. But for now, here is your first taste of our wanderings, from downtown out to the west coast. Enjoy!

Renzhuo + Shuonan: Engagement at Olive Park, Chicago

Talk about international love: getting to know Renzhuo and Shuonan and the story of how they left China and ended up in Chicago (and more importantly fell in love!) was such a joy, and photographing that love was effortless. We are so excited to share their wedding photos and video with you in the coming months, but for now enjoy these images from our time spent at Olive Park.

The Nicodems do Madeira

Part 3 of our European Adventure (click here for Part 1 and here for Part 2):

If Granada was our place to rest and recuperate from the winter chill and the hustle of an urban setting, then the next place we visited was the answer to any sluggishness that comes with having wine at 2pm everyday and basking in the Spanish sun with a good book: the Portuguese island of Madeira. It also happened to be a ten-year old "bucket list" wish for Marianne, having spent a year in Brazil when she was 18 and dreaming of visiting one of the Portuguese islands ever since. So in early February we left the peace of our rooftop in Granada and took a tiny plane out into the middle of the Atlantic to see what adventures there were to be had on Madeira.

It's safe to say that there is nowhere on this earth quite like Madeira. It is equal parts Ireland (vibrant green and constant drizzle), Portugal (ever heard of Madeira wine or Carnaval?), and that island from the TV show "Lost" (sans polar bears). Volcanic cliffs rise almost 1,800 feet into the air (the highest cliffs in all of Europe), natural salt water swimming pools line the north coast, and centuries old stone irrigation channels have been transformed into breathtaking hiking paths through the islands interior. We set out to do a little bit of everything.

To begin, let me say that if ever you visit Madeira, it pays to speak Portuguese. And thanks to Marianne and her linguistic abilities, we were able to navigate the island via public transportation, a feat that consists of asking over and over "where exactly does this bus leave from" and getting 10 different replies. On our first day we decided to leave our AirBnB in Funchal, the main city, and take a bus as far east as it would take us, and then hike out the rest of the way as far as we could before the island tapered off into a series of progressively smaller rock formations jutting out of the ocean. It was a six hour hike in total (as seen in the first 8 images below), with rain coming in and out. Few things have ever taken my breath away so much as standing as close to the edge of these cliffs as my adrenaline would let me, and staring eastward over the Atlantic, watching the island narrow down as if pointing like an arrow towards the coast of Morocco some 360 miles away.

Our third day we traversed the entire island by bus to Porto Moniz, a small town on the northernmost point of Madeira and home to dozens of naturally filled saltwater pools, scattered amongst the volcanic outcroppings along the coast. Naturally, I brought my bathing suit and jumped in, despite the stares of locals and other tourists bundled in their rain jackets (apparently they've never been to Chicago during our winter...we know what cold is). I wasn't about to miss out on climbing around and jumping off of every little cliff I could surrounding the crystal clear pools. 

All of this adventure led up to Day 5: a full day hike in the interior of Madeira, from the island's second tallest peak up to the summit of its tallest. We woke up early on the morning of the hike (you have to start early enough because by mid-day the peaks are completely covered in clouds, that's how tall they are) and joined a handful of others and our guide, ready to conquer. Now, imagine with me that you are walking down a cobblestoned sidewalk, with two thin wires on either side as handrails. But then imagine that instead of grass on either side, this sidewalk simply drops off down sheer cliffs. Now you understand what our hike was like. To go up we first had to go down, through tunnels and valleys and all the while saying to each other "this is unbelievable...this is unbelievable" and trying not to look down either side. And true to what we were told, by the time we reached the very highest peak on the island (after what felt like days of climbing staircase after staircase carved into the side of the mountain) the clouds began to roll in around and below us. It's a strange experience, looking down at the clouds as if from an airplane, as we sat eating our well-earned sack lunches. 

We finally decided to take it easy on our last day on the island, with a catamaran trip to see dolphins and an early dinner and good seats for that evening's Carnaval parade down the main street of Funchal. The following day we flew back to the mainland, exhausted in the best way possible and in awe of what we'd just experienced. If you ever get the chance to visit the Portuguese islands, Madeira is a must. And if not, crack open a bottle of Madeira wine and we hope these images can at least momentarily transport you there. Enjoy! We'll share about the rest of our time in Lisbon, Portugal in the coming weeks.

Rick + Kelly: Engagement in Chicago's Near West Side

It isn't very often that we get to do an in-home engagement session for a couple about to move to a new house, so it was extra special being able to photograph Rick and Kelly in their space and capture memories that will last forever. Their personalities are reflected in all of the little details of their home, and their love for each other was such a joy to be around. We can't wait to share their wedding in the coming weeks, in the meantime here are a few of our photos from our time together.

Alec + Kaitlin: Wedding at Bridgeport Art Center, Chicago

We had an absolute blast photographing Alec and Kaitlin's wedding earlier this Spring, from getting ready at the family home in Oak Park and the ceremony at the astounding Ascension Church, to the downtown reception at Bridgeport Art Center. Here are a few of our favorites from the night!

The Nicodems do Granada

Part 2 of our European Adventure (click here for Part 1):

Paris, for all of its beauty and well-earned praise, had begun to wear on us after two weeks of January cold. And so, like birds migrating south for the winter (or all midwestern grandparents everywhere, renting condos in Ft. Lauderdale to escape the snow) we fled the city rush and the rain and headed on a whim to Granada, Spain.

You know those times at social engagements where So-and-So is talking about their recent trip to Blah-Blah-Blah and keeps insisting that you "just have to go there" and everything inside you is thinking "really? I have to?" totally unconvinced? And then there are those times when a dear friend is talking about a very life-changing trip and they start by saying "it was just...just...aaahh I can't even explain it" and you know that they're for real and start looking into plane tickets? Well, let me play the part of the Dear Friend, and let this be the latter scenario. Granada was life-changing. 

Nestled in the foothills of Spain's Sierra Nevada mountains and an hour from the Mediterranean Sea, Granada is a fascinating clash of European and Arab influence, having been conquered and held by the Moors for seven centuries and then re-conquered by the Spanish kings. Terraced gardens and secret courtyards lie scattered throughout the older parts of the city; there is a constant sound of running water from the fountains and reflection pools around every corner. And above it all looms the Alhambra, a fortress and royal palace fit (quite literally) for kings, and conveniently the view we woke up to every morning and went to bed looking at every night from our Airbnb rooftop patio. For 8 days we basked in the Spanish sun, enjoyed tapas and wine during afternoon siestas, wandered through the winding streets of the old district, and watched flamenco in the very neighborhood it originated in. Below are some of our images from our time in Granada, and if ever we go missing for a month or more this would be the place to start looking. ¡Adiós!

Matt + Clarissa: Engagement at Morton Arboretum, Lisle, IL

It's hard to escape the fact that Matt and Clarissa's engagement shoot felt a little like something out of a German fairytale (or for the more modern reader, see "Twilight"), just without any big bad wolves at the end. But why would we want to? Her flowing maroon dress, a sprawling pine forest, the sun setting in the background, all of it made for an absolutely magical evening with a lovely pair of people. We hope you enjoy the images below, and if you ever get a chance to visit the Morton Arboretum do yourself a favor and continue driving the loop on the eastern half until you find this section, it's our all time favorite.

The Nicodems do Paris

Part 1 of our European Adventure:

Bonjour! A few weeks ago we shared a blog post detailing our time in the Pacific Northwest, and our need for a general "life processing" time. That month launched us into 5 full months of living life as nomads: from friends' houses to our parents' basement to Portland, OR, and finally on to Europe (and many an AirBnB therein). We took what we could fit in a backpacking pack and our camera bags, bought a one way ticket to Paris in early January, and left the U.S. knowing that we had nothing demanding our return before March. Little did we know that France would simply be the beginning of it all.

What more can be said about Paris than has already been said a million times over? It is a magical city, a city where you constantly feel as if you're wandering through the most elaborate movie set ever, a city where even in the cold and the rain of early January there is still something entirely captivating in the air. For us, France will forever be a particularly romantic place, as it has been exactly four years since I (Andrew) proposed to Marianne on the side of a mountain, looking out over the French countryside. And so we spent the first two weeks of our New Year wandering down cobblestoned side streets, reading or playing cards in countless cafes, and exploring parts of Paris previously unknown to us. Quite simply, we adventured. 

Here are a few of our favorite images from our time there, we hope it can momentarily transport you to the City of Lights. And if you should ever find yourself actually transported there, here is a list of some of our "Paris Favorites" for your enjoyment (please note, we're leaving off all of the obvious items, e.g. the Louvre, Eiffel Tower, etc.):

To rest: Le Jardin du Luxembourg, or the gardens inside the Palais Royal. Becuase there are those days when you just need to sit and feed the birds.

To refresh: This list wouldn't represent Marianne well enough without mentioning Juice It, or Season. Because you're going to need fresh squeezed juices and acai bowls to offset all the crepes you'll be consuming.

To read: "A Moveable Feast" by Ernest Hemingway. I did my best to find (and frequent) the cafés he talked about in the book, it's a fantastic way to see and experience Paris.

To imbibe: In the mornings, there is Ten Belles for coffee (tiny atmosphere, but if you're actually in it for the coffee then this is the spot). And in the evenings (or all night for that matter) do yourself a favor and have a cocktail at Bespoke (I did my due diligence and explored a lot of Paris's craft drink scene, this was by far the best).

To explore: the best wandering we did (outside of the obvious areas of Paris) was up near the Canal Saint Martin. Fantastic shops, best food and drink, and way less tourists with fanny packs and huge maps out. But if you want those tourists...there is nothing like bringing a bottle of wine to the steps of Sacre Couer to watch the sunset.

For more ideas, you can check out some of our work (here) that was featured in a Paris city guide for Design Sponge, in collaboration with our dear friend Jonathan Randall Grant. 

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